Monday, December 22, 2008

Moderate your indoor humidity in winter

If water condenses on your windows in winter, the problem might not be the windows – it might be that the house is too humid.

Time
1-2 hours
Difficulty
Easy
Expertise
None
Frequency
Once a year
Where
All US
Overview

Humidity makes your home more comfortable in winter, but you can have too much of a good thing. When you see condensation on your windows in wintertime, it’s a sign that you should lower the humidity level in your house. Otherwise, the water that condenses on your windows – not to mention inside your walls – can cause damage over time.

Try these suggestions for reducing humidity levels.


Steps
  1. Reduce moisture sources within your house:
    • Don't store firewood in the home.
    • Repair foundation leaks.
    • Turn your humidifier down or off.
    • Cover any exposed earth floor in a basement or crawl space, as well as sump pits.
    • Don't hang laundry to dry inside your home.
    • Limit the use of vaporizers or steam generators.
  2. Ventilate your home:
    • Vent your clothes dryer to the outside.
    • Use exhaust fans when showering or cooking.
    • Install a heat recovery ventilator (HRV) to exhaust warm moist air from your house and replace it with dry, fresh air from outdoors.
  3. Adjust the humidifier on your furnace, based on the outdoor temperature:
    • -20 degrees F. — 15%
    • -20 to -10 degrees F. — 20%
    • -10 to 0 degrees F. — 25%
    • 0 to +10 degrees F. — 35%
    • +10 and above degrees F. — 40%

Thursday, December 18, 2008

Home Buyers Turn to USDA for Mortgages Agency Program Backs Loans to Aid Rural Development; No Money Down -- Even Now

Tightened lending standards are leaving builders and real-estate agents scrambling for new ways to move cash-strapped buyers into homes. One increasingly popular option: an obscure home-loan program offered by the U.S. Department of Agriculture.

Created in 1991 as a way to boost homeownership in rural areas, the program is being tapped by home buyers in overbuilt exurbs who are attracted to the no-money-down terms.

When Erick Moore first read about the USDA's Rural Development Guaranteed Loan program, he says he imagined it would be "restricted to some little farmhouse." Instead, the 33-year-old computer programmer moved last month into a four-bedroom, three-bath home in Fuquay-Varina, N.C., 17 miles outside Raleigh. The house sits on nearly one acre and features a brick facade, 10-foot ceilings and hardwood floors.

"I couldn't believe it until we closed," says Mr. Moore, who paid only $1,200 out of pocket to move into the $228,000 home. The seller contributed $5,000 in closing costs, and Mr. Moore rolled the 2% fee charged by the USDA into the loan. Mr. Moore, who owned a home in St. Louis before he relocated to the Raleigh area last year, says a 60% drop in his stock portfolio made it difficult to come up with a down payment. He directed his Realtor to show him only homes that were eligible for the USDA program.

Fueled by buyers like Mr. Moore, volume has nearly doubled for these USDA-backed loans. The department insured $7 billion in loans during the 2008 fiscal year, which ended Sept. 30, up from $3.6 billion the previous year. In October and November, the agency has already insured some $1.7 billion in loans.

That's relatively small when compared with the volume of business handled by the Federal Housing Administration -- which guaranteed $102 billion in new loans during fiscal 2008. But interest in the USDA's development lending program is growing rapidly in response to the nation's credit crunch and as most private lenders have stopped offering loans with no money down.

To be eligible for a USDA-backed loan, a borrower can't have income that exceeds 115% of the median county income, and the loans are restricted to areas with lower population density -- generally towns of no more than 25,000 residents. So while home buyers in big cities aren't eligible for the loans, residents of many of America's fastest-growing towns and exurbs do qualify. The loans that come through the program are made by private lenders, then insured by the government and sold to Ginnie Mae, a federal agency that sells mortgages to investors.

Home builders, many of which have overbuilt properties in these areas, are eagerly promoting the program to sell excess inventory. The USDA program accounted for 40%-50% of sales in October and November for Scottsdale, Ariz.-based home builder Meritage Homes, says John Bargnesi, vice president for sales. "It's one of our main tools right now."

Builders Promote Program

Meritage is advertising a "$500 move in" program to clear inventory in new exurban developments, including the Buckeye and Queen Creek subdivisions outside Phoenix that have been hard hit by foreclosures and falling prices. "If a builder is in one of these geographical areas, they certainly are using it," says Mr. Bargnesi. "We're all in tune with it now."

D.R. Horton Inc., the nation's largest home builder by number of houses built, is promoting the program in sales pitches for a number of new developments outside Austin, Texas. One is named Parkside Condos, a development of 144 new two- and three-bedroom condos priced at $130,000 in Pflugerville. Kastera Homes LLC, a home builder based in Boise, Idaho, is offering to pay closing costs for buyers who use a USDA loan. D.R. Horton and Kastera didn't return calls seeking comment.

The success of the USDA program comes at a time when easy home financing is getting much harder to find. Private lenders have stopped offering loans that require no money down, amid worries that borrowers without equity are more likely to let their homes fall into foreclosure. In October, Congress terminated a popular program that allowed sellers to fund down-payment "gifts" for new home loans backed by the FHA. Next year, the FHA will require a minimum 3.5% down payment on all new loans, up from 3%, and private lenders often require a minimum 5% down payment.

Such restrictions do not apply to loans backed by the USDA, which is best known as the guardian of the nation's food supply. In fact, some buyers can finance 102% of the home price, factoring in a 2% USDA insurance fee meant to cover loan losses. The loans also don't require borrowers to pay for monthly mortgage insurance. That means that USDA loans typically carry lower monthly payments than FHA loans, even in cases when the size of the loan is larger.

Sue Botelho of Northstar Mortgage Group in Destin, Fla., is promoting the USDA loans as part of a "move in with a penny down" program. "The down-payment assistance has gone away. Subprime has gone away," she says. "So now mortgage lenders are pretty aggressive in terms of making people aware of this USDA program."

One of Ms. Botelho's clients, 46-year-old insurance adjustor Alan Sammons, paid nothing to move into a new $270,000 home in the Florida Panhandle in June. He had spent more than a year trying to find a reasonable loan before beginning construction on a custom four-bedroom, 3½-bathroom home in his Crestview, Fla., subdivision, which includes a community swimming pool and lighted tennis courts.

"They're still building homes in here," Mr. Sammons says.

Julie Chapman, a Brunswick, Ga., real-estate agent, says she is listing more properties eligible for the USDA loans -- including homes in the Plantation at Golden Isles, a new subdivision adjacent to a golf course. Many of the properties are selling preconstruction. "That's something you don't see anymore in this market," she says.

New housing developments built on open land that were among the first to experience the downturn could now benefit from the USDA program. "They're showing some signs of recovering," says Michael Orr, a housing analyst based in Mesa, Ariz.

Some question the USDA's practice of allowing no-money-down purchases. "If you have to get a 102% loan, you probably shouldn't be buying a house," says U.S. Sen. Christopher Bond (R., Mo.), who adds that he supports the intent of the programs because it has traditionally been "very difficult" for rural borrowers to buy homes.

USDA officials, for their part, say that concerns about the program's 100% financing aren't warranted because the department has a strong track record and because rural areas are less prone to big increases in home prices. "We guarantee in a very controlled environment," says Philip Stetson, a USDA administrator for the lending program. Because its average loan amount is just $120,000, he says that the program is less susceptible to large-scale losses.

Income Verification

USDA- and FHA-backed loans aren't prone to some of the risks that faced subprime loans because the government-insurance programs offer only fixed loans and require income verification. "We have not seen any direct evidence at this point that 100% financing is leading to greater losses," Mr. Stetson says.

The default rate on USDA loans is slightly better than the rate for FHA-backed loans. Some 11.35% of USDA loans were delinquent in 2008, while 1.4% went into foreclosure, according to the department's statistics. Meanwhile, FHA loans had a 13.6% delinquency rate, while 2.3% went into foreclosure. That compares to a 4.3% delinquency rate and 1.6% foreclosure rate on prime loans, and a 20.0% delinquency rate and 12.9% foreclosure rate on subprime loans, according to the Mortgage Bankers Association.

Unlike the FHA, the USDA programs rely on a fixed appropriation from Congress, which totaled $4.1 billion in the 2008 fiscal year, and new loans can't be made once that allocation is exhausted. The program was able to make nearly $7 billion in loans this year because it received additional funding from other department sources.

But heavy demand for the loans has administrators asking for more money. Officials say that the program will run out of money next month, even though it has been funded through March. "Up until only two years ago, we weren't even using the full amount," says Mr. Stetson. "It has been rather incredible at how it has taken off."

Write to Nick Timiraos at nick.timiraos@wsj.com

Monday, December 15, 2008

Dreaming of a Green Christmas

Holidays are a time of giving, feasting, celebrating, and generating a big old mess. Between Thanksgiving and New Year's Day, Americans create an extra one million tons of waste each week and throw away enough ribbon to wrap around the center of the Earth and tie it with a bow the size of the United States. Fortunately, you can make small changes without losing any holiday cheer.

Driving

Santa makes a list and checks it twice so he only has to make one trip on Christmas Eve (granted, it's a long trip). Do the same when you go shopping — write your list before you leave and do as much as you can in a single go. You can also shop online or by catalog and save yourself driving at all.

For holiday parties, carpool or take public transportation with your friends. You'll get more time to gab and save money on gas.

Bagging

Instead of ending your holiday shopping with a pile of plastic bags big enough for your kids to jump around in, take reusable bags with you. They hold more and don't end up in a landfill.

Giving

Recycling isn't just for Aunt Emelia's fruitcake. Give that gift you never used from last year to someone else (just not the person who gave it to you). Give slightly used items to charities, which helps clear out clutter. If you buy new gifts, look for products made from recycled materials.

If much of what you are buying runs on batteries, get rechargeable batteries. And remember the battery charger: get one for your family and one for whomever you give battery-powered gifts.

Chances are the people you know already have too much stuff, so rather than buying quantity, buy quality. The gifts last longer, are more appreciated and generate less packaging. Gift cards are another good way to go. People get what they like and you wrap less.

Living gifts are another option: seeds, house plants or potted plants to be planted outside in the spring. Gifts of food, events — like tickets to the theatre or the big game — or personal services also reduce holiday waste, not to mention saving you time on wrapping. Speaking of which....

Wrapping

Wrapping gifts doesn't mean wasting a ton of paper. Put gifts in reusable decorative boxes, gift bags or Christmas tins. Cut the pictures off old Christmas cards and use them for gift tags.

As for cards, buy cards made from recycled paper, or send e-cards, which use no stamps, require no gasoline to deliver and arrive faster.

If you love to wrap, use color comics from an old newspaper, old maps, stock reports or want ads (picked with the recipient in mind). For a Christmas project for the kids, have them color or stamp plain paper bags, and then use the bags to wrap relatives' gifts. Remember to save any ribbons or bows you get this year to reuse next year.

Decorating

Buy decorations that last for years. And invite your children to make decorations — they create wonderful holiday memories that will embarrass your children immensely when they are teens (be sure to reminisce in front of their friends).

Instead of using old-fashioned incandescent Christmas lights, which lose a lot of energy as heat, buy LED lights. They cost more, but they use a tiny fraction of the energy that regular bulbs do and last for up to 20 years with proper care. Use a timer to control when the lights turn on and off.

Cleaning Up

Once you've survived the holidays,it's time to get rid of the mess. Start with the paper. If you have pieces you can reuse, save them. If your town recycles wrapping paper (and not all do), recycle the rest. Save any reusable ribbons, bows, gift bags, cards and other materials for next year. Save bubble wrap for shipping and take foam peanuts to a mailing store.

Other things to recycle (check your local program):

  • Bottles
  • Cans
  • Aluminum Foil
  • Plastics
  • Cardboard

Recycle your tree, wreaths (remove wires first) and other living decorations. Most communities have programs for tree recycling, so check yours out, too.

Store decorations carefully so you can use them again next year. And please get the decorations down by January 15. After that, the neighbors start whispering about you behind your back.

Holiday Safety for Children and Pets

The holidays are a tempting time for the little ones in your house — all those interesting new things to touch and taste. That's why it's important to take extra precautions.

  • Avoid putting tinsel or popcorn on your tree — it looks fun to eat.
  • Don't leave edible gifts under the tree, where they are easy for pets to discover.
  • Place small breakable ornaments high on the tree, out of reach
  • Don't put edible gifts in stockings near a fireplace — that's a disaster waiting to happen.
  • Mistletoe and holly are toxic, so find a safe substitute.
  • When opening gifts, dispose of plastic wrapping, bows and ribbons quickly — they too look like they would be fun to eat.
  • Don't throw wrappings or packaging into the fireplace — some of it burns very rapidly, almost explosively — same goes for Christmas tree branches.
  • Place candles out of reach and away from combustibles. Extinguish them when they are unattended and remember— hot wax burns.
  • Don't let your pets drink the water the tree is sitting in.
  • Don't feed pets chocolate, candies or cookies.

Monday, December 8, 2008

Test your carbon monoxide detectors' alarms

Make sure the alarms on your detectors are working, so they can alert you to a hazard.

Time
1 minute per detector
Difficulty
Easy
Expertise
None
Frequency
Once a month
Where
All US

Your best defense against carbon monoxide is detectors installed near fuel-burning appliances and near sleeping areas. Make sure the alarm works correctly. This test doesn't determine if the detector functions correctly, just its alarm.

The risk associated with carbon monoxide poisoning is related to the concentration of carbon monoxide in the air and the duration of the exposure. Therefore, alarms sound if they detect low concentrations for a long, or high concentrations for a short time.

Steps
  1. Press the TEST button.
  2. Replace any detector with a non-functioning alarm.

Tuesday, December 2, 2008

Six Free Ways to Cut Heating Costs

In a report recently released, the DOE's Energy Information Administration said heating oil prices are projected to average $2.75 per gallon, a reduction of about 17% from the 2007-2008 heating season. Propane prices are projected to average $2.22 this winter, a decrease of 10% from last winter. And natural gas prices are projected to average $13.02 per thousand cubic feet, a slight increase of 2% from last winter.

Bottom line, it's looking like heating your house this winter is going to be close to an all time bargain.With this part of the economy actually working in your benefit, there are a few things you can to actually drive heating costs down even further, without spending a dime:

  • DO WINDOWS – Keep window shades open and curtains pulled back during the day to take advantage of the sun's energy. At night, keep shades tightly drawn to both insulate the glass and reduce drafts caused by convection, which occurs when warm heated air strikes the cold glass, chills and then falls on you as you are stretched out on the couch, causing an uncomfortable draft.
  • SET THERMOSTAT – Yes, we know figuring out how to program your clock set-back thermostat sends you psychologically back to the days you spent staring at a blinking VCR. But do it! Programming your heat to go down when you are sleeping or not home, and back up only when you are active in the house can cut heating costs by a whopping 10%.
  • LAUNDRY LATER – Running your dryer not only dries your clothes, it also sends lots of excess heat into the house. Time your dryer cycles to supply heat when you need it, like during the day when you first get home from work. Running the dryer when you go to bed is a waste since you are already tucked snugly beneath the covers.
  • REVERSE SPIN - Ceiling fans' reversible motors can spin indoor air into comfortable savings year-round, pushing warm air down in the winter and pulling cold air up in the summer. Add even more savings by installing an Energy Star-qualified model, which is up to 50% more energy efficient than a conventional fan.
  • PUT OUT THE FIRE – Even though the thought of a roaring fire conjures up scenes from a Norman Rockwell print, you'll save some dough if you skip the fireplace as a source of home heating. Most fireplaces are a home heating vacuum cleaner that sucks expensive, heated air right up the chimney. Instead, use them selectively as you would any luxury expense – because that is exactly what they are to run.
  • SKIP THE BUDGET PLAN – If your fuel supplier offers a so-called budget plan where the cost of heating is spread over a 12 month period of time, cancel and pay for only what you use. Unless your income is such that you can not take the least bit of fluctuation, it's never been a better time to just pay for what you need.

Thursday, November 20, 2008

Clean the Refrigerator Coils

Clean the refrigerator coils

Your refrigerator is the biggest user of electricity in your home. Clean its coils to keep it running efficiently.

Time
5-10 minutes
Difficulty
Easy
Expertise
None
Frequency
Once a year
Where
All US
Overview

Clean your refrigerator coils. The coils on the back or bottom of your refrigerator give off heat. Dust or debris keeps them from cooling, making your refrigerator work harder.


Steps
  1. Unplug the refrigerator.
  2. Determine whether the coils are behind or under your refrigerator by pulling the refrigerator out or removing the kick plate under the door and peeking under the refrigerator.
  3. Vacuum the coils to remove dust balls, pet hair or anything else that inhibits air movement. If you prefer, use a coil brush that you can purchase at a hardware store.
  4. While you’re at it:
    • Check the door seals for air leaks.
    • Clean door seals with soapy warm water.
    • Empty and clean the defrost drain pan.
    • Remove mildew from the ice and water dispenser openings.
    • Check the water dispenser for proper flow rate – normally 8-10 ounces of water in 10 seconds.
    • Remove and shelves and crispers, and wash them and all interior surfaces with a warm, damp rag. Don't use any chemical cleaning solutions.