Check your attic

Inspect your attic to stop heat loss and moisture problems.

Time

15 minutes

Difficulty

Moderate

Expertise

None

Frequency

Once a year

Where

All US

Overview

Your attic is a great indicator of potential moisture problems in your home.

It's often best to inspect the attic by standing on a stepladder, with your upper body through the attic access hatch. That's because in many homes, the floor of the attic is not meant to bear weight. You can stand on the ceiling joists, but one false step could send you through the ceiling below. Also, if the joists are covered with insulation, you risk tripping over buried wiring and getting an electrical shock.

Only go into an attic with a legitimate floor. Wear a mask and other protective gear and clothing to protect you from dust, debris and skin irritants like fiberglass.

Steps

1. Look for water stains on the underside of the roof and rafters, indicating leaks.
   • Monitor old stains for signs of new leaks.
   • New stains indicate active leaks. Have the roof repaired or replaced.
2. Check for signs of animals, such as droppings. Have a professional remove as squirrels, bats, raccoons, mice, bees, wasps and other vermin.
3. Check for mildew on the underside of roof, indicating poor attic ventilation, humidity or air leakage from the house.
   • Increase attic ventilation.
   • Install a weatherstripping seal around the attic access hatch if missing or worn.
   • Check for possible air leaks around light fixtures, plumbing stacks, and around chimneys and ducts. Have any leak sealed.

     

4. Inspect roof vents.
   • Check if the roof vents are clogged with bird or insect nests. If so, have the nest removed.
   • Wet or compressed insulation under roof vents indicates the vents allow wind-driven snow or rain to enter the attic. Have the vents replaced.

     

Fill your floor traps

Keep sewer gases out of your home with these simple steps.

Time

5 minutes per trap

Difficulty

Easy

Expertise

None

Frequency

Twice a year

Where

All US

Overview

All plumbing fixtures have traps – a bend in the drainpipe that is always filled with water. The water stops smelly sewer gases from entering your house. The traps below your sinks are replenished every time you run the water, but in most homes the traps below the basement or laundry room floor drains never are refilled. The water evaporates, and sewer gases start wafting up from the drain.

Steps

1. Remove the lid from the floor drain.
2. Clear any debris from the drain trap.
3. Pour half a bucket of water down the drain to refill the trap.
4. (Optional) Add a few tablespoons of mineral oil on top of the water in the trap to prevent the water from evaporating.

   

Flush sediment from your water heater

Tired of cold showers? The sediment in your water heater might be lowering your water temperature and the amount of available water.

Time

15 minutes

Difficulty

Easy

Expertise

None

Frequency

Once a year

Where

All US

Overview

Over time, the minerals in hard water collect in your water heater. Over time, it reduces the amount of hot water available, lowers your water temperature and, in some cases, reduces your water pressure.

Do this simple job carefully; wear gloves to avoid burns.

A drain valve is on the side of your water heater, near the bottom. It looks like a typical outdoor faucet, with a handle and a threaded spout.

Steps

1. (Optional) Shut off the heating supply.
   • With an electric water heater, shut off the circuit breakers or pull the fuses.
   • With a gas water heater, turn the gas valve to the pilot position.
   • With an oil-fired water heater, turn off the power to the burner.
2. Attach a hose to the drain valve and direct it to a floor drain.
3. Open the drain valve until the water runs clear.
4. Once the water runs clear, turn off the drain valve.
5. Wearing gloves, detach the hose from the drain valve. Lift up the end of the hose so any hot water left in it runs towards the drain.

Inspect your outdoor wiring

While you're outdoors during warm weather, take a few moments to inspect your oudoor outlets, lighting and wiring.

Time

1 hour

Difficulty

Easy

Expertise

None

Frequency

Once a year

Where

All US

Overview

Outdoor fixtures, outlets and their wiring should be in good shape – no worn, loose, or dangling pieces. They should also meet height and circuitry standards to protect them from mechanical damage.
Have a look at your outdoor wiring to make certain it is safe. Call a professional electrician if you spot any problems

The first rule is "look but don't touch." If you spot any problems, contact a professional electrician.

Steps

1. Check for loose or damaged plugs and fixtures:
   • Have fixtures that are loose or hanging from their wires repaired or replaced.
   • Examine electrical outlets for mechanical damage. Have worn or damaged outlets replaced with GFI outlets.
2. Check for damaged or loose wiring:
   • Check all the visible wiring on your home’s exterior for fraying at connections. Check the plastic sheathing that coats the wires for cracking, splitting, wear or rodent damage. Have it replaced immediately.
   • Loose wiring is prone to damage. Have it properly secured.
3. Check for improper wiring. Indoor wiring is not designed for damp locations and should not be used outside. If you find indoor wiring being used outside, have it replaced. If you are not sure, consult an electrician. Here are some things to look for:
   • Outdoor wiring has heavier casing to protect it from the elements.
   • Wiring rated for protected outdoor application has NMW printed on it.
   • Wiring rated for indoor use might have the letters NMD printed on it.
   • Most often, indoor wiring is white or red and outdoor wiring is black, brown or grey.
4. Check for unprotected wiring. Wiring less than seven feet above the ground must be armored cable (encased in a flexible metal jacket) or inside a plastic or metal conduit (pipe) to prevent mechanical damage. If you have unprotected wiring below that height, have it fixed or replaced.

   

Check your exterior wood for paint or stain needs

Check the condition of the exterior paint or stain on your house.

Time

30 minutes

Difficulty

Easy

Expertise

None

Frequency

Once a year

Where

All US

Overview

Most wood siding and exterior trim requires painting or staining, so take a moment each summer to check its condition. Wood deteriorates quickly unprotected, so look for warning signs of moisture or wear. Moisture penetration can cause rot, while exposure to ultraviolet light can deteriorate the surface.

Check the entire exterior of you house for paint failures such as bare spots, cracking, peeling and blistering. Use binoculars to look at eaves and other areas to which you can't get close.

Steps

1. If the paint is failing in a reasonably uniform pattern, or in areas exposed to more weathering, then the paint is simply wearing out.
2. If the paint is failing in localized areas, further inspection is required. Blistering paint, for example, usually indicates moisture in the wood.
3. Check carefully wherever the end grain of wood is exposed. Paint is critical in these areas to prevent moisture penetration.
4. Look behind bushes, shrubs and vines. These areas stay wet longer, causing the paint to deteriorate more quickly.

Inspect wood for rot and insect damage

When wood touches soil, it's prone to rot and attack from wood-eating and wood-boring insects. Inspect vulnerable areas of your property once a year.

Time

3 hours

Difficulty

Easy

Expertise

None

Frequency

Once a year

Where

All US

Overview

The soil is full of creatures great and small that feed on or dwell in wood. Decay microorganisms, termites and carpenter ants can weaken wood to the point of collapse.

Steps

1. Look for places where wood touches soil. Here are some typical areas to check:
   • Wooden posts supporting decks and porches. Even those on concrete or brick supports are at risk if the supports settle below ground level.
   • Bottom steps of porches and decks.
   • The risers that hold up the basement stairs. In older homes, the staircase might have been installed before the concrete floor was poured.
   • In the basement, the bottom of wooden posts.
   • The base of older wood-frame garages built without a proper foundation.
   • Wooden frames of basement windows.
2. Wherever you find wood touching soil, gently probe the wood with a screwdriver. Rotted wood is soft.
3. Look for evidence of insects:
   • Termites: Look for sandy soil deposits within the wood and sometimes mud tunnels along the surface of the wood. If you break a tunnel open you might find the termites, which are white and about the size of a grain of rice.
   • Carpenter ants: Look for large smooth tunnels, often packed with white eggs. Around the nest are large black ants, sometimes with wings and sometimes with reddish-brown mid-sections.
4. If you find areas where soil touches wood, correct the problem if possible. If fixing it is a major project, monitor the area closely.
5. If you find or suspect you have insect damage, contact a pest control specialist.

   

Test and clean your smoke alarms

A quick testing and cleaning help keep your family safe.

Time

10 minutes per alarm

Difficulty

Easy

Expertise

None

Frequency

Press the test button once a month, clean and test them with smoke twice a year, and replace the battery once a year.

Where

All US

Overview

Your smoke alarms can only protect you if they work properly, so take a few minutes to test and clean them. And install a fresh battery while you're at it (be sure to recycle the one you remove).

Pressing the test button shows that the alarm makes noise but doesn't show that it detects smoke. That's why you have to test it with smoke. If the alarm fails either the noise or smoke test, replace the battery. If that doesn't correct the problem, replace it.

Steps

1. If your home has a security system connected to a central station, contact the security company before testing the smoke alarms.
2. Every month, press the test button to verify that the unit has power and an audible alarm.
3. Twice a year, test and clean the unit:
   • Use an aerosol smoke detector tester to blow smoke into the unit. If you don't have a tester, use a candle or smoke stick. It should take very little smoke to activate the alarm.
   • Open the alarm's cover and lightly vacuum the interior with a fine brush attachment.
4. Once a year, replace it the battery.